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FILIPINO-A MERICANS

M ore than 1.4 million Filipino-Americans, currently the 10th largest immigrant group by nation of origin,
live in the U.S.; they are one of the largest Asian-American ethnic groups, and certainly the fastest-growing.
Early immigration began in 1899, when the United States took possession of the Philippines from Spain after the Spanish-American War. For 35 years, Filipinos traveled under American passports and could come to the United States without restrictions, this at a time when Chinese immigration was banned and Japanese immigrants were increasingly prevented from becoming citizens or buying land. However, anti-Asian attitudes extended to Filipinos, and half of the 133,000 contract workers in Hawaii during this period returned home (sometimes with amounts of money that made them substantial landowners back in the Philippines). The mainland population grew later and more slowly; they were mostly agricultural and cannery workers in California and Alaska, with a small but important group of college students and another of Navy employees in Chicago and other shipyard ports.

In 1934 the United States granted the Philippines commonwealth status, and effectively ended large-scale immigration until the 1965 immigration reform acts. The Hawaiian community remained predominantly plantation workers through the 1950s. About 169,000 Filipino-Americans live in Hawaii, the second-largest Asian-American minority there. On the mainland, Filipino-American farm workers in California organized the first grape strikes, and united with Mexican-Americans in the 1960s United Farm Workers’ Organizing Committee. When Filipino immigration expanded in the 1960s, professional employment opened up. English-speaking Filipino nurses who had trained in an American curriculum were able to get licensed for nursing in the U.S., and appeared on the staffs of big city hospitals.

Prior to Spanish and American colonization, the 7,000 islands of the Philippines were already home to a multi-ethnic society, with perhaps 60 dialects. Tagalog has been the national language since independence in 1948, and is also the home language of people from around Manila. Ilocanos from northern Luzon are thought to be the majority of Filipino-Americans, and Visayan-speakers from the central islands are the next-largest sub-ethnic group. Filipino-Americans have sometimes settled by language groups, so regional cooking differences may appear in American cities.

Filipino-American cooking partakes of many influences, with some Chinese-Spanish dishes that are the original “Pacific Rim fusion food.” So far, the most apparent Americanization has been the emphasis of chicken and pork adobo over the other 11 variations in The Philippine Cookbook by Reynaldo Alejandro! Some other common Filipino-American dishes are pansit (a noodle dish), lumpia (egg rolls), and beef pochero.


Adobo Manok (Chicken)

Adobo is the national dish of the Philippines. The Spanish word "adobo" means “marinade,” but many Filipino-American recipes shorten that step. This one, which does require marinating, was contributed by “Mrs. Ken Pinckney (Maria Muribus)” to the St. Louis Cookbook; Bicentennial Issue by the Women’s Association of the St. Louis Symphony (1964). She notes, “Adobo, made with chicken or pork, or both, was always served at the Filipino gatherings I attended as a child in San Francisco.” This is the author’s favorite chicken recipe, and our family has had adobo hundreds of times since my sister-in-law Judith Music learned it from a Filipina neighbor in 1978. You can multiply it, remove the skin from the chicken, or omit the browning Steps 9 through 12.

Yield: serves four

1/2 cup vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
6 cloves garlic
2 celery stalks and leaves
2 bay leaves
2-1/2- to 3-pound cut-up frying chicken
about 3 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons salad oil

Equipment: Deep pot, frying pan

  1. Peel and chop the garlic.
  2. Chop celery stalks and leaves.
  3. Mix the first 6 ingredients in a deep pot.
  4. Crumble in the bay leaves.
  5. Add chicken pieces, turning to coat well.
  6. Let stand for 2 hours, turning now and then.
  7. Cover and bring to a boil.
  8. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until chicken is barely tender, 30-40 minutes.
  9. Take chicken from pan, saving marinade.
  10. After chicken has cooled somewhat, coat each piece lightly with flour.
11. Heat oil in a frying pan, and brown chicken pieces on both sides, starting with the thighs and drumsticks.
12. When all chicken is browned, pour marinade back over chicken.
13. Cook over low heat, uncovered, until sauce is reduced by half, about 40 minutes.

Serve with sauce over white rice.

Cirio’s Pork Adobo

This is a rather different adobo from Hawaii, where it seems to have absorbed additional Chinese influence in the use of ginger, and Japanese influence in the use of the MSG. The recipe was submitted by Eloise Tungpalan to the 1986 revised edition of We, the Women of Hawaii Cookbook, edited by Jean Keys and Adele Davis.

2 pounds pork
1/3 cup vinegar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced ginger
4 bay leaves
1/4 teaspoon monosodium glutamate (Accent)
1/4 teaspoon black pepper (coarsely ground)

Equipment: Heavy, covered skillet

  1. Peel and mince garlic to make up the tablespoon.
  2. Peel an inch section of ginger, cut thin slices, and mince for the tablespoon of ginger.
  3. Mix ginger and garlic with vinegar, monosodium glutamate, and black pepper in a plastic container.
  4. Crumble in the bay leaves and add some salt.
  5. Cut pork into 1-inch cubes.
  6. Toss pork cubes in marinade and refrigerate overnight.
  7. Place everything in a heavy skillet, and heat over a medium flame, with a cover.

Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until pork is browned on all sides and tender. “Meat will be crispy on outside and all the liquid in the pan will be absorbed.”

“Serve hot with rice.”

‘Bibinka Royale’ By Ana

Bibinka is a rich coconut sweet in the Philippines that has become popular among Hawaiians of all backgrounds. It is a common street food in the Philippines. But this version, by Ana Del Mundo, contributed to the 1994 BAC Bites; A Savory Collection of Northwest Favorites, by the BankAmerica Club Washington, has lost the coconut and become more like cheesecake.
Yield: Serves 24
2 cups Bisquick baking mix
2 cups sugar
2 cups milk
2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon baking powder
4 eggs
1 8-ounce package of cream cheese
1 teaspoon butter
sugar and parmesan cheese to sprinkle on top

    Equipment: 13 by 9 baking pan.
  1. Mix first six ingredients in a bowl until the mixture is free of lumps.
  2. Level off in the baking pan.
  3. Cut the cream cheese into dice.
  4. Scatter cream cheese over the mixture in the pan.
  5. Bake at 350 degrees for 25-30 minutes or until golden brown.
  6. While still warm, spread a teaspoon of butter or margarine on top.
  7. Sprinkle on a bit of sugar and fresh parmesan cheese.

Serve warm in brownie-size squares.

Copyright © 2000, 2001 by Mark H. Zanger. Remember, there is no copyright on recipes or other common household formulae, but copyright and fair use laws do apply to selection of recipes and cultural-historical commentary.